Roma de mochila às costas por Gonçalo Cadilhe

WALLPAPER ROMA Roma de mochila às costas por Gonçalo Cadilhe

por Nelma Viana, Publicado em 29 de Julho de 2009  

O português que já viajou por todo o mundo esteve algumas vezes em Roma e fala-lhe do despretensiosismo da capital italiana. Conheça as propostas de Gonçalo Cadilhe para Roma

Cadilhe escreve livros sobre todos os sítios por onde passa

O meu hotel favorito
Nunca tive oportunidade (leia-se dinheiro) para frequentar os hotéis de Roma (sempre fiquei em casa de amigos), mas se pudesse escolher uma noite num deles, ia para o Hotel Fontana, que é um pequeno edifício num antigo bordel oitocentista debruçado sobre a fonte de Trevi. Discreto e muito charmant, ironicamente passa despercebido aos milhões que atiram moedas para a água, de costas para a fonte, de frente para a sua fachada romana.

O melhor restaurante
Roma não é a cidade ideal para comer em Itália, nem sequer tem tradições gastronómicas relevantes. No entanto, tem boas tascas a preços baixos.  Nunca perco a oportunidade de comer um prato de mezzi rigattoni in salsa di broccoli, no restaurante Piccola Roma da Ezio, na via Giolitti. Perto do parlamento, é onde os senadores vão almoçar o prato do dia e mal entramos algum empregado de mesa há-de vir ter connosco cumprimentar-nos com um “buon giorno, senatore!”, independentemente das sandálias, da máquina fotográfica e da mochila às costas

O meu passeio favorito
Gosto particularmente de passear pelas vielas do quarteirão medieval, essa Roma do povinho amedrontado e ignorante da alta Idade Média que construiu as casotas com as pedras do antigo Império Romano e que queimou Giordano Bruno na fogueira. É uma Roma despretensiosa e tranquila, não tocada pelos excessos barrocos da contra-reforma vaticana, uma Roma frágil e diminuta que me recorda a precariedade da grandeza humana

O melhor bar
Disse atrás que não tinha dinheiro para frequentar um hotel como o Fontana, mas para beber um prosecco ao fim da tarde no seu bar, sim: uma sala minúscula com janelas viradas para essa fonte de Trevi que, como diz a canção, “se lhe atiras uma moeda para água/ constringes o destino/ a fazer com que um dia regresses a Roma”

A minha livraria preferida
Aconselho duas livrarias para os leitores que não dominam o Italiano, ambas perto da Piazza Navona e ambas com grande selecção de livros em outras línguas: a livraria da cadeia Feltrinelli perto do Largo de Santa Susana, dedicada a edições internacionais; e a Libreria Francese, na Piazza San Luigi dei Francesi, ao pé do famoso Caffé Grecco e do palazzo Madama

A melhor rua de compras
Talvez a mais engraçada zona de compras é o mercado de Porta Portese, aos domingos de manhã: é a feira da ladra de Roma. Uma vez fui enganado por um livreiro a comprar uns livros lá, mas só reparei uns dias depois. As últimas palavras do livreiro, quando lhe entreguei o dinheiro e me passou os livros, foi um amigável: “Em Porta Portese fazem-se sempre bons negócios, amigo meu”

O meu museu favorito
Roma é o museu. Não se pode especificar. Mas o meu coração está com a igreja de San Luigi dei Francesi. É apenas uma igreja, mas lá dentro, numa capela, como quem não quer a coisa, encontram-se três fabulosos Caravaggio, dedicados à vida de São Mateus. Em qualquer outra capital do mundo, seriam o espólio principal do principal museu nacional. Ali, em Roma, são apenas três quadros numa capelazita de uma igreja menor

O segredo que Roma melhor esconde
Segredos sobre Roma? Os únicos que conheço são os do livrinho de Corrado Augias, “I Segreti di Roma”, uma espécie de guia histórico da cidade através de pequenos episódios menos conhecidos. Também em edição inglesa, creio. Mas eis um lugar que, não sendo um segredo, é menos visitado e que é dos meus preferidos: a Villa Adriano, no “subúrbio” de Tivoli. Para passar umas horas sentado a (re)ler as “Memórias de Adriano”, um dos livros fundamentais da minha vida e que terminei de ler, precisamente, aqui

Tome nota:

Hotel Fontana
Piazza di Trevi, 96
http://www.hotelfontana-trevi.com/

Restaurante Piccola Roma da Ezio
Via Uffici del Vicario 36

La Feltrinelli
http://www.lafeltrinelli.it/fcom/it/home.html

Libreria Francese
http://www.libreriafrancese.it/

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